Ljubljana for the weekend: travel, accommodation, communication, food

Ljubljana for the weekend? why not! This city does not pretend. Small, quiet and green. basic.

It is better to start from the top. The cable car slides steeply over the city, up the castle hill. During its centuries-old history, Ljubljana Castle served as the residence of the Habsburgs, and as a prison and barracks for Napoleon’s forces. I walk around the courtyard and along the fences and look at the building.

Keep the best until the end: I climbed 95 degrees to the balcony of the watchtower and after a while I have a wonderful panoramic view of the city. The rusty red roofs resemble Czech cities. The distant mountains look 100% like Switzerland. Thousands of students across the city – somewhat like Krakow.

Borek, a biscuit with cheese and spinach, which I ate as soon as I arrived, is a taste rooted in the Balkans. It is said that dragons have lived in the area for centuries, but now Ljubljana (also known as Ljubljana) is a much friendlier mix of cultures.

Steep streets go straight into the old town, a network of cobbled streets connecting three squares: Miejski, Górny and Stary Rynek. The homes of the pastel residence and the canopies of cafes and tourist restaurants do not keep me for long. The best helmets are sold a few blocks away.

Central Market At the foot of Castle Hill is a good guide to Slovenian culinary traditions. There are rows of stalls in the squares and along the streets, where you can buy everything you need for a perfect meal: from mushrooms and herbs to fish and smoked pork chops. Throughout the summer, Odprta Kuhna (open kitchen) is held every Friday on Pogacarjev Square.

Hundreds of chefs prepare Slovenian dishes. Žlikrofi, dumplings stuffed with spiced pork, breaded frog legs, smoked tongues…everything tastes better with the local wine. Finally, there’s also a dessert, Prekmurska gibanica, the kingdom of exaggeration: a sandwich with poppy seeds, nuts, apples, and cottage cheese.

Ljubljanica, the river on which the castle hill rests in a bend, is repeatedly crossed by stone bridges. Zmajski Most with dragons on all sides receives the most attention from tourists. However, I like tromostovje most of all – three passes in one. The Medium Footbridge was extended 85 years ago by Jože Plecnik, a heroic architect who struggled to preserve the urban unity of the city, reconciling tradition with modernity.

Lightweight lace-like construction of Triple Bridge Guides – Like all roads in Ljubljana – To Preseren Square. The Slovenes did not choose a knight or a politician, but rather a poet as the patron saint of the main square in the capital. cool France Preseren He stares out the windows of the building where his malama Gulija once lived (a bust of her is on the wall of one of the neighboring apartment houses).

Just a few steps from the elegant downtown area, it is one of the most original places in Europe. Metelkova is a self-proclaimed town where art, not officials, rules the 19th century barracks. It’s not chaos, but independence – say the artists who run the entire center.

When Slovenia regained independence in 1991, the military left the buildings, the artists asked the government for the right to use the land. They did not receive any official response. Two years later, they decided to move on their own terms. Today Metelkova is teeming with life. Every year 1.5 thousand events, from workshops and debates to exhibitions, concerts and performances.

Ljubljana is the largest city in Slovenia / Photo: Getty Images

Opened in 2011, the MSUM Museum of Contemporary Art attracts the public in a more elegant version. The walls of the buildings are decorated with exquisite ornaments, and huge sculptures stand right on the sidewalks. There are no limits to creativity. For more art, I headed towards Tivoli Park. This huge green space with historic buildings scattered around is perfect for a weekend stroll. The Baroque palace houses the Museum of Contemporary Slovenian History.

In the heart of the garden stands Country house in Tivoli At the Center for Graphic Arts. A “library under the trees” next to the pond operates all summer and you can read books for free. In search of unique souvenirs, I return to the river. on the avenue Kankarjevo Nabrichi Every Sunday there are flea market stands. There are real treasures among military medals, jewelry, antique watches and portraits of former commanders. It is worth bargaining for everyone. With a little luck, you can leave the city with real gems. And if not, there are always fond memories of Ljubljana. enough for me.

From Warsaw to Ljubljana, LOT flies (prices from 600 PLN).

To use city buses, you need to purchase an urban public transport card (2 euros) and provide it with the specified amount. Single trip 0.80 EUR (valid for 90 minutes).

Celica Art Hostel is located in a former prison building with interiors designed by artists. Bed in a dormitory from 17 EUR per person/night.

Ljubljana Essentials organizes tours where participants can try traditional dishes and meet the chefs. Slovenian flavors include kranjska klobasa (sausage), potica cake, and japanica prikmorska fudge.

The text was published in the “National Geographic Traveler Extra – 25 Cities Weekend” (01/2018).

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