Designers from Lùchen duo revive the concepts and evolution of fashion. In April, they held their first runway show, which was held outside of the Fashion Weeks calendar. It also became one of the most interesting finds at the exhibition “In America: Fashion Dictionary”, which was preceded by the Met Gala. “Our first collection consists of sculptural garments that can be displayed like works of art,” says Lu Chen, the brand’s artistic director.
The project “Adam With Apple” – the last silhouette from the first Lùchen collection, is on display at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. It’s the end that opens something and it’s the beginning – Lu Chen’s comments. The strict, openwork robe fits perfectly with the body of the person who wears it. The ultimate goal of fashion is to return to the human body from which it was born. There are different paths at play, including technological, natural and philosophical methods – Explanation of the creators of Lotion. According to the biblical Book of Genesis, picking the fruit from the Tree of the Knowledge of Good and Evil was the reason for Adam and Eve’s expulsion from Heaven. After tasting the forbidden apple, they saw their nakedness that they had to cover. Lùchen cast off shyness, exposing his nudity, but he did not abandon the clothes.
New York is home to Lotion and an endless source of inspiration
Lu Chen, the brand’s artistic director, was born in China, raised in Australia at the age of 15, and has lived in New York for the past seven years. Different cultures intersect in me, but I do not want to allocate to one of them. In the past, I experienced the need to have a specific identity and affiliation. Now, thanks to my creative development, I focus on constantly exploring myself and my surroundings. I am also so grateful to New York City for being a place of limitless possibilities and endless sources of inspiration. – Lu says.
The Lùchen duo was also created by photographer Hui Huang. The Chinese-born Manhattan studied at Parsons School of Design, as did Lu Chen. His poetic and carefully choreographed images reflect the artistic, conceptual and exquisite nature of the brand.
Luchen’s presentation is a presentation, not just a presentation of the presentation
The premiere of the brand, or rather the exhibition of things, was held in September last year at an exhibition in SoHo, New York. Its first runway show took place in April 2022 at the Daryl Roth Theatre, part of Off-Broadway, located in a beautiful classical building on Union Square in Manhattan.
Among the fans of Lùchen’s costumes is Jordan Roth, famous for his bold and striking style, the son of the founder of the theater, as well as New York fashion personality and producer of prestigious shows, a frequenter of the Met Gala. At an event organized at MoMA in New York, during which funds were raised to develop cinematography, Jordan Roth wore Project Lùchen, in which screens were combined with films. Craft has become an interesting metaphor.
– I think a fashion show can be a profound performanceM “Not just a commercial presentation. Our first collection consists of sculpted garments that can be displayed like works of art. The second is made of easy-to-wear models. We have developed and deepened the narrative of the offer. The story was based on the feelings I felt during the creative process, such as: Loneliness, helplessness, a sense of confusion and darkness, but also peace, joy and excitement. You have transferred these mental states into physical subjects, as well as into movement and phase activities – Lu Chen explains.
The Fall Winter 2022 collection has been discontinued with show-like scenes. First model Irina walked the runway in a white boxy apron in openwork organza. She had a suitcase in her hand. On her return, she sat down at the secretary of the black cloth and began to write. – The story began, taking viewers deeply into her imagination – Lo unwinds. Irina was the alter ego of the designer. Among the projects is a dress, part of which is a bundle of fabric. The texture can expand, which also creates a new and interesting story.
Part of the show was also a moving dance by Aaron Choate, a valued choreographer and choreographer who, using movement, clarified the subconscious of the costume creators.
Some models and models bear sculptures. The unstable and crushed concrete balls are the work of Miguel Otero Fuentes. They show the evolution of the creative process. The amazing animated bird’s head mask was created in collaboration with Elijah Secrest, an Ohio artist. The silver finger covers he designed are the result of the fascination with Egyptian and Renaissance art, as well as an attempt to remove the boundaries between the body and clothing, as well as natural and man-made elements.
The show was interrupted by a model who had previously sat in the audience. He appeared on the podium and began to shoot the viewers, switching roles: the viewers became the viewers. A pair of white-robed dancers spoke of the conflict between body and soul, as did the black characters who wrapped up the show and deepened the drama.
Luchen revives anti-fashion concepts
While the fashion world is still absorbing and reinterpreting trends from around 2000, Luchen goes back to what happened several years ago. Lu Chen’s design brings to mind the Belgian and Japanese avant-garde. The New York-based company is reviving and evolving the concepts of fashion, created on the basis of what is dark, dramatic, combed, rough and fashionable, matte. Designers and designers who debuted at the turn of the ’80s and ’90s, such as Martin Margiela, Yuji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, and Anne Demeulemeester, started collections based on black. They also undermined the canons of beauty, adding to them elements that previously seemed ugly, broken. Tears, asymmetries, distortions, lack of finishes, left sides, fraying, marks and structural elements become part of the sophisticated design and avant-garde elegance proudly displayed in museums today.
Luchen’s latest collection reminds us of these experiences. However, it is completely unique, unlike what others have done or have done.
Lùchen is fashion imbued with humanity. According to the duo, individual experiences and memories of the people who wear them are an integral part of the clothing. At the heart of Luo Hui’s considerations is a man whose body is constantly changing.